RhinoPower Ltd

Okay, I do get a reading on the RV (v0.8) speedometer.

It read 8 KPH when TheZuke!'s speedometer read 15 MPH

(approx 1/2 scale, or if it _truly_ thinks it is KPH...1/3 actual)

I also got TPS readings of ~4-17 in a short drive.

I think the Battery readings are correct.

 

ECU 0000 shows action on just about every register

(which sensors are okay to unplug?

other than throwing ECU codes, are there any dangers or dangerous ones?)

 

TheZuke!

dona nobis pacem

Now we build the configuration file. I have some of the information already, the 1202 is a common ECU used worldwide.

You should take a look on here and on Suzuki-forums for Grimreefer's posts. He and I have already done some work on the 1202, I've also sent out another interface to Sweden which I think will also be a 1202.

Next stage is to change the ECU ID to 0000, that will bring up the dataviewer in raw data mode.

Addresses 0->3 will be the fault code registers. Unplug a few sensors and record the values displayed.

Address 4 should be the target idle, does it start off at a fixed value and them slowly decrease to a fixed value as the engine warms up?

Addresses 4 and 5 are RPM, the scaling can be changed in the configuration file datastream.csv located in the bin folder. In the constants area, in the 1202 column, change the value for RPM from 4 to 1 and see how that looks.

Address 6 should be the VSS, output is usually in km/h, can you confirm this?

Next few addresses are the analogue inputs, I did have those values somewhere but I will hook an ECU up on the bench and recheck.

We'll get those addresses sorted and then move onto the next bunch.

Cheers

James

The most common problem with USB seems to be that the device is incorrectly identified as an HID device. This happens if you don't install the drivers first or on first plug-in, the driver then needs to be updated through the Device Manager.

I tried another 9-pin serial cable from the laptop to the RS-232 tester and it lights up, so I guess the first cable was bad.  I didn't find any settings in CMOS relating to the serial port. The Nokia cable is "no-show" so it too may be bad.

TheZuke!
dona nobis pacem

Many of today's laptops allow the com ports to be disabled in the CMOS setup - you might like to check to see if that one was.

Loading the Nokia driver didn't help,  maybe the cable is dead.

I did find a bad ground on the interface board, and resoldered it,
the ECU is still "no show" in Rhinoview (using the 9-pin serial on COM1).

Maybe the bad ground blew the MAX chip, I did buy a spare one.

I've cracked open the casing and it looks like the cable does have a transceiver so it may interface to the MAX232 chip although it won't meet the RS232 specification. Can you access the PCB on yours? it may be easier to bypass both transceivers.

OK, yesterday I ordered one of these cables myself to experiment with, it just dropped onto my desk. The cable came with a disc that contains the Nokia software suite including the Prolific driver. I put the disc in but didn't install the software. Then I plugged the cable in and the New Hardware Wizard popped up. Point the wizard to the CD and it will install the driver, it then shows up as "Prolific USB to Serial Comm Port"

Stay tuned....

Rhinoman wrote:

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The Nokia cable uses a Prolific chip which can be prone to driver problems. If you look in the hardware manager can you see the device? which COM port does it claim to be on?

No, I "really" don't see the device or to which USB port it is "connected" in devmgmt.msc

I always use the FTDI chip because I have never had a problem with it or with the drivers but I will get hold of one of those cables to experiment with as threy are cheap.
I haven't seen a 58B90 so i will need the ID number, you could try downloading RS232 Hex Comm Tool from VID

I think they wanted $40 for the tool, and I'm on a shoe string budget (that's why I built the circuit instead of buying yours outright.)  I remember back in DOS days a terminal (emulator?) program in the Accessories folder or somesuch, but I don't see it in Home XP. would something like that suffice?

and sending the data (10, 03, ED) manually, thats what I have used for debugging.
That schematic is very poorly designed. You definately don't want to try and source power from the laptop/PC because the noise and spikes on the vehicle wiring could damage the port. Also the 7805 isn't suitable for automotive use, at the very least you should use a reverse blocking diode in the power line

you mean "after" the 7805? I do have forward biased diode between the 12v input and the 7805 and a 24V (or similar) zener diode to protect both the interface and the laptop. in this case, "across" 12v in and ground? 

The circuit doesn't have the correct switching levels either, nor does it have any hysteresis. That said it can work with some ECUs but it will drop data more often than a properly designed circuit.

Edit:
There is a long standing issue with RV that means that you have to close down the programme to change serial port settings. Because most people only use it on one ECU and the software retains its settings there hasn't been much impetus to fix this but it will eventually be corrected.

Okay, that's good to know too!

Thanks again!

TheZuke

dona nobis pacem

-- Edited by Rhinoman on Wednesday 16th of February 2011 11:11:00 AM

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The Nokia cable uses a Prolific chip which can be prone to driver problems. If you look in the hardware manager can you see the device? which COM port does it claim to be on? I always use the FTDI chip because I have never had a problem with it or with the drivers but I will get hold of one of those cables to experiment with as threy are cheap.
I haven't seen a 58B90 so i will need the ID number, you could try downloading RS232 Hex Comm Tool from VID and sending the data (10, 03, ED) manually, thats what I have used for debugging.
That schematic is very poorly designed. You definately don't want to try and source power from the laptop/PC because the noise and spikes on the vehicle wiring could damage the port. Also the 7805 isn't suitable for automotive use, at the very least you should use a reverse blocking diode in the power line and a 24V (or similar) zener diode to protect both the interface and the laptop. The circuit doesn't have the correct switching levels either, nor does it have any hysteresis. That said it can work with some ECUs but it will drop data more often than a properly designed circuit.

Edit:
There is a long standing issue with RV that means that you have to close down the programme to change serial port settings. Because most people only use it on one ECU and the software retains its settings there hasn't been much impetus to fix this but it will eventually be corrected.

-- Edited by Rhinoman on Wednesday 16th of February 2011 11:11:00 AM

Is this the proper place to discuss this? (you're the boss)

I forgot to mention it is RV 0.7

I first tried the circuit adapter with a USB converter

http://jethomson.wordpress.com/2010/02/21/diy-usb-to-serial-cable-for-3usd/

and got "connected" on various COM ports (COM2-COM7?) 
I was not able to get an ECU ID but I did attempt a few times to change the setting in the pull down, and it RV replied that one wasn't found and would use defaults.

When I replaced the caps a couple weeks ago, I wrote down everything on the outside of the ECU box and a few stickers inside too!  Do you think I can find that slip of paper NOW?!!!

I removed the USB converter and connected directly to COM1 on the laptop with a 9-pin serial cable, I also tried swapping TX and RX for good measure.  It showed "Connected" there too, but no daters (plural for data ) displayed/logged/viewed.

Yes, it would show an ECU ID in the bottom RH corner, which ever ECU ID I'd put into or pull down from the menu...

I made the adapter so I could readily swap RX/TX lines on the PC side.  It may not work, but I was eager to hook it up after soldering.  It uses the 7805 regulator instead of "phantom" power from DTE or RTS.

There is the possibility the laptop doesn't have the right serial port chip, I'm still wondering how I'll find that out.