Yes Vellasco, I have original adapter, wow I missed that, only looked on smooth TPS %, you was right, but according to manual should be that value, picture nr 2
MAF sensor showing 0 at idle speed ufff, going up later on with RPM I learning and will be learning, how I could miss that, or I broke it during dissembling/ assembling, maybe problem was on beginning with deposit in IAC/EGR cleaned all and slap MAF
-- Edited by Cider on Friday 31st of March 2017 06:25:55 PM
-- Edited by Cider on Friday 31st of March 2017 11:44:59 PM
hello Vellasco, there is no manifold pressure sensor on my engine, anyway the vaccum is holding well, when remove servo hose after half hour.. I was also digging there, but was not too bad, seen worst, I clean it.
I putting 'last card' on IAC malfunction, just ordered second hand one.
-- Edited by Cider on Thursday 30th of March 2017 04:47:08 PM
I don't know exactly how does this parameter is processed but it seams that your pressure sensor isn't reading the manifold pressure, it could cause a rich condition.
I will check that the o2 sensor voltage and fuel injector PW parameters read correctly the O2 sensor shouldn't ever go above 1V so that looks suspicious.
-- Edited by TechSupport on Thursday 16th of February 2017 11:44:20 AM
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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine 2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods 2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip 2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+ and many more.
Hello all, Firstly thank you for this forum, I am not professional electronic but I know basics, I am not digging in coding of ECU- components communication, but hobbistic "do yours self" when is time and cider in garage:). I own this GV V6 from 9 years, bought nearly new from first owner, with 39k on clock with FSH. Anyway I have some mechanics experience and always very look after my own cars myself, The worst problem was with the rust, but last year I spent all week with grinder, mig, underbody paints, ( lot of cases of cider:), on last MOT guys were impressed :)
From some time there occur the problem with engine, get hesitation when idling and sometimes stalling, when cold works perfect, but when hotter getting worst. There is no power lose, pooling like always during driving, sometimes without reason just cut off engine on traffic lights, one time during stopping then I have feeling like IAC not working, RPM dropping rapidly. I have full suzuki manual, have follow the procedures, check all sensors for currency, valves, vacuum lines, put new lamba's, Check Ignition system( haven't got oscilloscope yet), new sparks, cylinder pressures impressive high like on 100k, fuel pressures like in book, no coolant drinker:)
Ofcourse I get great interface from James, PS thank you for advice, but problem not resolved, I dont give up
I have changed o2 but still showing 0.1 V - 3.7 V, (I though they lying) rest of the main data looks ok BUT Pulse Widh 2.62 ms- no matter what I doing, gas on floor, cold, hot- ECU trying reduce the pulse- too rich fuel?? Lambas reading indicates the same up to 3.8 V but TFT and LTFT shown arround zero. I get stupid now, leaking injector (S) there is no much different between bank 1 bank 2 , all running too rich :( so all together leaking? ECU damaged? I have no Idea, pls help Someone...
in advance I saing sorry for continue this subject, but I dont want make confusions in main posts :)
I have screenshots from Rhino, if Someone could help with please I will be grateful.
-- Edited by Cider on Thursday 16th of February 2017 11:52:54 AM
Target Idle is another useful parameter, high idle speed is a common issue. Target idle will tell you if the ECU has set a high idle because of a fault condition or if the ECU has lost control of idle speed.
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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine 2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods 2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip 2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+ and many more.
There are some simple checks that can be done without the FSM.
Check for stored codes, those are not indicated by a Check Engine Light and may indicate an intermitent fault
Leave the vehicle to stand overnight and then check that the coolant and air tempertaure sensors read ambient temperature.
Check that the pressure sensor, if fitted, reads around 1000mBar with the engine off.
Check that the TPS increments smoothly when the pedal is depressed.
Fuel trims should be around zero or around 128 when viewed as raw data.
The O2 sensor should switch continuously between 0V and 1V once the engine is warmed up.
Ignition advance should change with load and RPM.
Injector Pulsewidth is usually around 1ms to 2ms at idle with engine warm.
If the ECU communicates then that means that the processor is running, thats a good sign. If the there is no communication then the ECU could have a serious fault. There is a 'limp' chip that should run the vehicle (albeit badly!) when the processor fails or is shut down bythe safety chip.
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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine 2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods 2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip 2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+ and many more.
Hi Rhino,
I just download the program and make myself a "2 transistor" cable, looks a bit ugly but it working well:
Now I can read all the information from ECU, the problem is I do not sure whether the parameters are good or not.
Couls you please show me where can I find those information.
(E.g: Battery voltage range from 12.5V to 14.5V is OK)
Thanks in advance.
Now I can read all the information from ECU, the problem is I do not sure whether the parameters are good or not.
Couls you please show me where can I find those information.
(E.g: Battery voltage range from 12.5V to 14.5V is OK)
Thanks in advance.
